When you try new products, something happens (or at least it should). But that something is not always what you expect. It can look an awful lot like a breakout, and that can cause you to give up on your products before they’ve had a chance to work their magic. We’re talking about the purge. Here’s why you should embrace it rather than fear it.
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What Is a Skin Purge?
There’s more happening beneath your skin than you can see.
Microcomedones (the seeds of pimples) are forming deep in the follicle long before they become visible. It takes about 28 to 30 days for a pimple to actually appear. That's the length of the average complete skin cell cycle.
Skin care products with active ingredients speed up surface exfoliation, pulling congestion to the surface much faster, which can make it seem like you're experiencing a sudden flare. Naturally, you blame the product, but in fact, the product is doing its job. This is the storm before the calm, or what we like to call the worse before better paradox.
Ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids and REt (RP)™ Retinoid (Retinyl Propionate) support faster surface cell turnover and exfoliation of dead skin cells. Over time, this process reveals fresher-looking skin and supports the appearance of clearer, smoother pores. But there's that awkward in-between phase that is not so great.
Why Does Skin Purging Happen?
Ingredients that support surface exfoliation, like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), and REt (RP)™ Retinoid, work by:
- Accelerating exfoliation of dead surface cells
- Loosening the buildup that dulls skin
- Supporting clear-looking pores
As they do this, they bring underlying congestion to the surface faster. The upside? Those blemishes also tend to fade from view sooner than they otherwise would.
How Is a Purge Different From a Breakout?
Technically, a purge is a breakout. It’s just one that’s been accelerated by products.
All pimples start deep in the follicle as a result of dead skin cells mixing with sebum and creating an impaction, which feeds bacteria and inflammation, resulting in a blemish. Increased surface turnover pulls the impaction upward, revealing the blemish sooner.
Here’s where the real distinction lies. The same exfoliation that hurried the pimple to the surface will also help slough it away, so it fades in less time than it normally takes for a pimple to form, emerge, and subside.
A purge:
- Happens in areas where you usually break out
- Appears shortly after starting active products
- Fades faster than your typical blemishes
A true breakout or reaction:
- Appears in new or unusual areas
- Continues to worsen over time
- May be caused by pore-clogging ingredients (like heavy creams or certain oils)
Are there times when your products might be the cause of a real breakout or a reaction? Yes. A product that contains comedogenic ingredients can clog pores, resulting in a flare-up that has nothing to do with the process we’ve been describing. You may run across this if you’re using heavy creams or certain oils (coconut oil is a particularly common offender).
Active ingredients can also cause some mild redness, dryness, and flaking that could be mistaken for a reaction. This is part of accelerated exfoliation. However, if your skin is inflamed, raw, or painful, that is a sign you need to back off. In this case, stop everything except mild cleansing and a light, calming moisturizer like Allantoin Sedating & Hydrating Lotion until skin feels calm and comfortable. Then resume every other day until skin becomes acclimated, and you can move to daily use. If your skin continues to have issues, move to a milder product.
Will New Products Always Cause a Purge?
Everyone experiences the purging effect at different levels. Some may not experience it at all. All skin is different. If you are prone to breakouts, you probably already have congestion forming under the surface, so you are more likely to see a purge. Just remember that if it happens, it's temporary and a sign your skincare is working.
Need help in your journey? Unsure if you’re purging or reacting? Want to know if you’re peeling is too much or not enough?
Contact a licensed aesthetician at info@vivantskincare.com and get the product answers you need or book a virtual consultation for personalized guidance and regimen adjustments
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