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Jul 02, 2020
by Vivant Skin Care
For many people, microneedling, or dermarolling, as it’s also known, has become an essential part of their skincare routine despite its somewhat prickly nature. The process uses tiny needles to introduce micro-injury to the skin, which prompts your body to send collagen to the epidermis to initiate repair.
If you’re a fan of this collagen induction therapy, you’ll want to pay special attention to products that accompany it. In addition to stimulating collagen, the microneedles create tiny channels in the skin’s top layer to enhance penetration of corrective serums. This fast-track treatment means using the right corrective serum can supercharge your results.
Here are our top choices for targeting specific concerns.
8% Mandelic Acid 3-In-1 Serum
Mandelic acid is an inhibitor of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for pigment production. This targeted serum will help fade existing pigment, including the dark marks left behind by acne, and prevent new pigment from forming. And mandelic is the gentlest of the alpha-hydroxy acids. Its larger molecular structure means it’s absorbed more slowly by the skin to create less irritation, making it ideal for sensitive or dark skin tones prone to hyperpigmentation.
Spin Trap Vitamin C & E Therapy
The synergistic pairing of vitamins C & E delivers mega-watt illuminating and firming renewal to skin showing signs of UV and environmental damage. These superstar antioxidants fuel each other’s photoprotective effects to reduce fine lines, fade discoloration, and encourage a radiant glow. Since vitamin C is essential to the synthesis of collagen, you’re doubling down on structural repair.
15% Mandelic Acid 3-In-1 Serum
First, let us make this super clear. DO NOT derma-roll over active acne. It will make it worse by spreading bacteria, increasing inflammation, and delaying healing. If your skin is acne-prone, but not broken out at the moment, you can use the derma-roller with this serum to help head off future flare-ups. Mandelic acid has potent anti-bacterial properties to target acne bacteria. It also helps to calm inflammation and encourage the shedding of dead skin cells to clear pores.
Your skin should already be acclimated to mandelic acid. If not, use 8% Mandelic Acid 3-In-1 Serum in place of the 15%. It will give you the same benefits, just at a slightly lower dose. Even though mandelic is known for its gentle activity, it is a mild exfoliant and requires some acclimation to the higher percentage. You can move up to the 15% when your skin has acclimated, and you want to push your results further.
Rejuv Rx Peptide Concentrate
The main purpose of dermarolling is to stimulate the skin to produce collagen and elastin. Peptides are the topical equivalent. Combine the two, and you get some serious plumping power. Rejuv Rx is a potent peptide concentrate to supercharge your collagen-induction therapy. And since peptides are class-A calmers, this serum will help soothe skin and speed redness reduction after all those tiny needles parade across your skin.
This serum combines the two most powerful age-defying ingredients known to skincare: vitamin A and peptides. Both are signaling agents for collagen production. Vitamin A also accelerates cell turnover to help shed excess pigment and reduce the appearance of fine lines. As building blocks of protein, peptides are essential to firm structure, but they also stimulate the skin’s production of the skin’s natural moisture factor, hyaluronic acid.
The difference between home and medical microneedling
The main difference is the length of the needles. At home, you use a hand-held device with a cylindrical roller equipped with medical-grade solid steel microneedles no longer than .5mm, so the punctures are very tiny. A skincare professional will use a medical microneedling device with needles that are 0.5mm to 2mm long.
The longer needles mean a more intense treatment and a longer healing time, but they can also bring more dramatic results. If you’re looking to improve raised scars or stretch marks, you’ll need the longer needles that you can only get at the dermatologist or aesthetician’s office.
When done by an aesthetician or dermatologist, the treatment is performed at four to eight-week intervals. Microneedling has some advantages over laser resurfacing. It doesn’t cause the epidermal injury that can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, the skin heals quickly, and the treatment costs far less.
Home microneedling can be done more frequently because the punctures are superficial. Some people claim that it can be done daily, but we think that’s a recipe for irritation. Once or twice a week is plenty.
Tips for Microneedling
Don’t microneedle skin that’s irritated, inflamed, experiencing active eczema, or broken out with acne. You’ll spread bacteria and worsen your skin. You absolutely must wait for any and all of these issues to clear before dermarolling.
Do not share your dermaroller. It could lead to infection.
If you have sensitive skin, use the dermaroller with caution and definitely not with products you have any sensitivity to.
If you’re using the roller a couple of times a week, you’ll need to toss it out and get a new one monthly. As the needles become dull, they can damage your skin.
Keep your roller clean by submerging it in alcohol before and after each use.
It’s a good idea to do a patch test the first time you use a serum with a dermaroller. Remember, your skin will absorb the product faster than the usual rate, and that could cause irritation.
Use a moisturizer after using the dermaroller to calm and soothe skin.
Roll in multiple directions using very light pressure. Don’t cover the same area more the two or three times in the same direction.
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